We dug up this wonderful (if trainspotty) travelogue piece about the city of Edinburgh in the Guardian newspaper, in the U.K., by “Scottish noir” novelist Ian Rankin.

As Scotland’s political, financial and cultural capital, Edinburgh is a city whose prominence is not in doubt, but it is a most unusual city with a fascinating cultural history. Its urban geography and topography are dramatic and unusual.

The city feels relatively small and pastoral, filled with parks and bounded and intersected by green corridors. It’s near the sea, with a busy port and beach communities nearby, but it’s not a city of the sea, not a seaside town per se, as opposed to well-known beach-fronted cities like Brighton or Blackpool.

The Rankin article is a personal four-hour journey through the author’s favorite haunts, side streets and neighborhoods. It’s a must read for anyone who has a claim on the city, resident and visitor alike.

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